Imagine creating some fake details on Mercury or Neptune so you can win a photo award with your 8" SCT. The potential for AI abuse in planetary imaging is astounding. Dwell on that thought for a minute, and ask yourself if you'd feel good about using this software if it comes to that. If Topaz hypothetically added some Hubble data to their training set, so the software recognizes familiar DSOs when it sees them, then using Topaz would become equivalent to using Hubble data to enhance your own image. It's adding detail based on its best guess of what the object should look like. In other words, it's not sharpening your actual data. Briefly, Topaz uses a database of millions of images for "training," in order to guess what details were present in your astrophoto before blurring and noise obscured them. I like Topaz AI for its noise reduction abilities, but its potential to create "fake" detail where there is none is quickly garnering a bad reputation in astrophotography. I'll likely have to experiment with this a lot more and see how things I'll likely have to experiment with this a lot more and see how things turn out. This seems, in general, to provide better results than deconvolution. I do like the additional detail for the most part. But look at the filaments on that dark dust? Why did it make that one set of dust very tendril like, yet leave the other areas mostly untouched? Strange. The tadpoles look fantastic, with increased sharpness and detail. The enhanced nebulosity is quite nice, but what's happening with that dark dust? How did it pull out that detail? The first example here is the Heart Nebula (click to enlarge). I then stretched them fully in PixInsight, then combined, and ran another pass of Denoise after removing green. On the new images, I processed each channel separately, then used Topaz Denoise AI + sharpness while in grayscale. On both originals, I combined all three channels before maximizing the stretch and saturation. Understand that the before and after were processed very differently. Some of the detail that's been revealed in the newly processed images are astounding, and some of it is quite baffling. So I took the software to the task of reprocessing some of my images. Anyhow, on one of those images I saw a discussion spring up regarding some of the enhanced detail being "made up" by the AI. We noticed a considerable improvement in picture clarity and noise level after using the app.I picked up Topaz Denoise AI because I saw a few examples of astro images that seemed to present some truly amazing details. In conclusion, DeNoise AI is an efficient, attractive option to help you deal with the noisier shots. More than that, you can also mask certain parts of your photo, so as to apply the denoising algorithm only to those areas. There is also a "Split View" option, allowing you to move a slider around to compare a before/after preview of your image. If you are unsure about which one to use, the "Comparison View" provides an overview of how your photo would look with each. "Standard" is all-purpose, "Clear" works great for smooth surfaces and portraits, "Low Light" is for nighttime shots, "Severe Noise" is to be used for very noise-heavy photos, whilst "RAW" is for the camera format. Users get the ability to choose between five AI models, each suited for different scenarios. The capabilities of each element are easy to grasp, as an explanation is provided for everything. Topaz DeNoise AI looks to fix that through its machine-learning algorithms, employing a per-photo approach where each scene is analyzed to preserve clarity. The reluctance around high ISO values stems from the fact that it introduces noise into the photo, which can give it an unkempt, low-quality look, taking away detail in the process. Increasing the sensor's sensitivity to light - which is what the ISO setting does - is widely considered a last resort of sorts, that you only increase if the shutter or aperture had failed you. Adjusting the former two won't always return a well-exposed image, so you'll have to resort to cranking the ISO up a notch or two. The subject and framing are paramount, but what about the settings? Especially if you're in manual mode, there's the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO of your camera that you have to handle. While shooting your photos, you have to account for a lot of variables.
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